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You'll rest ashore on Florida's panhandle
NY Daily News - March 15, 2008

By Jane Ridley - NY Daily News Writer

— Few New Yorkers automatically think of the Gulf Coast as their first choice for a brief Florida vacation. It is, after all, further flung than the more accessible playgrounds of Miami and Orlando.

But the moment they experience the Gulf's balmy breezes, spectacular sunsets and miles of unspoiled beaches backed by rolling, snow-white sand dunes, they'll congratulate themselves for thinking outside the box.

Affluent South Walton in the Sunshine State's northwest corner, about 100 miles east of Pensacola, might be close to established resorts such as Panama City, traditionally favored by raucous spring breakers. But South Walton's laid-back, upscale ambience couldn't be more different.

Here, you'll find elegant gourmet restaurants and eclectic, artsy boutiques full of curios and handcrafted mementos, rather than the neon-lit sports bars which helped earn the coastline the totally unfair and outdated nickname of the "Redneck Rivera."

Locals in the know - including songstress Sheryl Crow, who has a holiday home nearby - might be perturbed to find their well-kept secret is out, now that more hotels and condos are rapidly springing up.
Thankfully, though, the new developments are almost universally tasteful and in keeping with the tony, eco-friendly feel.

The area, blessed by year-round warm weather, is ideal for bike riders and families who enjoy walking - because of the low-lying landscape and pleasant sidewalks between communities.

Arguably the most picturesque of the natural attractions is Grayton Beach, with its pristine beach perfect for safe swimming, sunbathing and surf fishing. There is a nearby salt marsh and a nature trail though the dense shoreline forest of scrub oaks, magnolias and pines.

Alternatively, you can paddle a canoe or a kayak on the scenic lake, or plunder the brackish waters for both fresh and saltwater fishing.

If posh shopping is your thing, head to Seaside - the utopia which was the setting for Jim Carrey's hit movie "The Truman Show" - which has cutesy cafes and pricey stores such as Fusion, which sells stunning Murano glass.

The town no longer looks quite as pristine as in its 1980s heyday, but a few cracked paving stones and a little peeling paint make it seem more real and homely.

My base, just a 15-minute walk from Seaside, was the WaterColor Inn & Resort, a 500-acre retreat which makes the most of its magnificent location right on Santa Rosa Beach.

You can stay at the 60-room boutique hotel, which boasts a chic spa and an adults-only swimming pool, or rent one of the plush, one-to four-bedroom townhouses or cottages. (There is also the increasingly popular option of buying one of the properties for regular vacation and rental opportunities.)

Most of the amenities are geared toward families, including a huge, heated outdoor pool at the Beach Club, the boathouse with canoes, kayaks, fishing gear and a lakeside pool. There's also Camp WaterColor, which offers special activities for kids such as sand sculptures, cooking and crafts.

Bicycle rental is free and all rates include a one-hour session at the tennis center. Golfers can choose either the Tom Fazio-designed Camp Creek Golf Club six miles away, or the Greg Norman-designed Shark's Tooth Golf Club situated a little further at Watersound.

The jewel in WaterColor's crown is the Fish Out of Water, four-diamond restaurant that serves such delicacies as Florida hoppers, local red snapper and roasted black grouper.

After our meal, we ventured onto the restaurant's roomy, space-heated deck to watch the dancing flames of a giant bonfire down on the beach.

On either side of the resort was nothing but darkness, peace and the gentle sound of lapping waves. A true retreat, indeed.

IF YOU GO ...
WaterColor Inn starts at about $230 for a room/cottage per night. Nearest airports are Panama City and Fort Walton Beach; the trip to WaterColor (with a stopover in Atlanta) is over six hours from New York City. For information: www.watercolorinn.com or 1-866-426-2656.

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